This guide is intended to be used by anyone who is keen to understand and has the patience to learn the art of screen printing. It is a home user’s guide and the advice is intended for folks without access to a professional studio like myself so the steps outlined in this document may differ slightly from those practised by professional artists but fundamentally the process remains the same. Screen printing is a skill that is learned over time and through much trial and error but once you have found your feet I hope that you get as much pleasure and satisfaction from your results as I do. Above all, have fun!
I print fine art and illustration images onto paper but these instructions can be tailored to suit those that print onto t-shirts. The main differences are that the inks will be material based and the printing surface will be a platen not a table. Once you have your cheap home built studio set up as per my post Screen printing Equipment then you’re ready to go.
ARTWORK
The first priority is to design the image that you want to print, decide on the size of the image and the number of colours you want to use. For those starting out the fewer colours means a simpler print to organise and manage. I design everything digitally in Adobe Photoshop on my PC. The main thing to remember at this stage is that each colour needs to be printed as a black image on to a sheet of acetate film. I’ve decided on a 3 colour print of black, deep pink and mauve. So in my example I have to make and print out 3 different separations on to acetate film for each colour from my laser printer.
Final design for print created in Photoshop
Black Separation
Mauve Separation
Pink Separation
Detail of final artwork for the black colour showing full black and full white areas (not used in my example)
Detail of final artwork for the black colour using halftone pattern to simulate tonal areas. This effect is generated in Photoshop which I’ve used for my print
PRINTING ON TO ACETATE FILM
To print I use a Brother HL2037 but am reliably informed that Epson printers give the best results provided you set your print settings to ‘transparency’. Most times I have to triple up my films to make certain that no light can get through the black tone and therefore ruin the sensitised screen during exposure:
Acetate film for the black separation. Each section has been printed 3 times to increase the opaque quality of the film. I am looking to prevent any light from getting through these areas.
The film is organised and registered correctly on top of each triplicate before being taped together
Finally each section is then taped together with transparent tape
Once the entire image has been printed and taped together the same process needs to be repeated for each colour separation. Once all of these have been generated you’re ready to…
PREPARE THE SCREEN
Use the degreasing chemical on the screen by spreading it over with a rag on both sides of the mesh. Wash out with water thoroughly and allow to dry. Warning: if you’re doing this in the bathtub rinse the bath out immediately after to prevent any residual degreaser from remaining. Always use rubber gloves that go up to the elbows. Read instructions on the container carefully. If any chemical touches your skin wash off immediately.
The screen is degreased in the bath using a rag covered in the degrease paste. Always use safety equipment described above.
A hairdryer works well to dry the screen if you’re impatient! To coat the screen with the photo sensitive emulsion you must be in dim or blacked-out light because you want to prevent any UV exposure from sunlight or UV emitting light bulbs which will harden the emulsion on the screen. I find that a dim orange light bulb gives me just enough light to see what I’m doing.
Degreased and dried screen, photo-sensitive emulsion, trough and handy stirring stick!
Fill the coating trough enough to ensure that it spreads to both ends when tilted. Don’t make the mistake of adding too much or you’ll end up with a mess with the excess. Hold the screen in one hand at an angle of 45 degrees with the backside of the screen facing you. With the loaded coating trough in the other hand touch the spreading edge to the bottom of the screen and tilt until all the emulsion along the length is touching the screen. Then spread the trough upwards at an even pace and the emulsion will coat the screen. Your drying and dark area should be nearby.
Fully coated screen. This must be done in dim light
I lay my screen backside down on two pieces of wood either end so it dries print side up and cover with a piece of board. Then I lay black-out material over that.
Screen laying on wood blocks covered with board to dry
Black-out material is placed on top of board to dispel any light during drying process
Once dried, the board and blackout material is taken away under a dim orange lamp.
It should take around 4 hours to dry but I leave it overnight. Once the emulsion has dried the next stage is…..
SCREEN EXPOSURE
Next turn your lamp on and time accurately. The light sensitive emulsion in exposed areas will react with the light and harden. The unexposed areas under the black part of the acetate film will remain soft.
Screen, acetate film and glass under exposure lamp
Once the time has elapsed turn off the lamp and continue to work in the dark or dim light for the stage of…
WASHOUT
Detail of exposed and washed out screen. The darker areas are hardened emulsion that were exposed to light. Lighter areas show clear screen where ink will be pulled through.
You can now let your screen dry or use your hairdryer on it ready for…
SCREEN AND PRINT AREA PREP
Spot filler has been used to cover small pin holes in the emulsion.
All 4 edges of the screen need to be taped with masking or gum tape to make sure no ink seeps through to your substrate (paper) from the screen edges. Attach the screen to your hinges on your printing table and make sure you have your paper stock within arms reach. You’ll also need your sponge, inks, rags and a spatula.
PRINTING YOUR COLOUR
Acetate film has been taped from one side under the screen to print the image and therefore register the paper that has been printed with a previous colour. It can then be folded clear when the paper is in position.
The ink needs to have the consistency of double cream. Always use a retarder (medium) in the ink to prevent it from drying on the screen, I normally add 2 heaped table spoons to my ink cup and mix thoroughly. With water based inks I also add a drop of water to aid viscosity. To print the colour lay a strip of ink around 1cm in depth across the top edge of the screen making sure it will cover all printable areas when pulled.
Hold the squeegee at around 45 degrees behind the ink and pull towards the bottom edge using constant speed. The first print should be on your acetate film.
Once the print has been made, pull the ink back over the screen to flood the printable areas with ink while holding the screen up at a slight angle so it doesn’t touch the table surface, this will prepare the screen for the next pull.
The first rough test print is placed underneath the printed acetate for correct registering of colours. Acetate is then folded back over ready for ink to be pulled on to the correctly positioned paper. In this test example the black ink will overlap the top edge of the paper so my paper stock for the proper print run should be larger.
Acetate has been folded away and test print is in position for first pull of the second colour.
Repeat this process on to your paper stock for however many prints you intend to pull. You may notice that your ink will dry on the mesh after a few pulls or becomes clogged which will affect the quality of your print. In this case you’ll need to washout the screen with water and leave to dry before re-printing your colour. If like me you have little space to dry your prints and no expensive drying racks then you’ll need to lay them on the floor strategically. Hanging them on a line using clothes pegs is just as effective if space is an issue.
Next you need to…
RECLAIM THE SCREEN
Image showing half of the original stencil removed with the use of diluted strip liquid and a pan scrubber. Always use the safety equipment described above!
The entire printing process can be a messy one but the more you try it the more proficient you’ll become in avoiding mess and making full use of all available space. It can be frustrating when you don’t get exposure times correct and screens don’t washout properly but with persistence you’ll get it right and learn to enjoy your fabulous results. I hope you have fun with all your endeavours!
The entire printing process can be a messy one but the more you try it the more proficient you’ll become in avoiding mess and making full use of all available space. It can be frustrating when you don’t get exposure times correct and screens don’t washout properly but with persistence you’ll get it right and learn to enjoy your fabulous results. I hope you have fun with all your endeavours!
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